Food and Dining Radio Show Restaurant Roundabout– 3.6.08
**ALL RESTAURANTS DISCUSSED ARE LISTED AT THE END WITH ADDRESS AND PHONE NUMBERS
Linda Gassenheimer (LG)
Joseph Cooper (JC)
Fred Tasker (FT)
Jen Karetnick (JK)
Rochelle Koff (RK)
JC: Today is our restaurant roundabout with Linda Gassenheimer. We’ll hear from Fred Tasker, of course, and two excellent restaurant critics. We’ve got the full hour to talk about restaurants and Dinner In Minutes.
LG: Nice to see you. It’s our popular restaurant review program. We’ve had an amazing amount of openings this year, of course closings, and gossip to share. There’s so much news going on these days. Jen Karetnick is here and she’s the restaurant critic from the Miami Herald. Also here is Rochelle Koff who is the Broward Herald Restaurant Critic and the Weekend Editor. Fred Tasker is here in his usual seat. He’s the wine columnist for the Miami Herald and he writes the wine suggestions for my Dinner In Minutes column. We’re also pod-casting.
FT: Yes, we have a pod-cast. You can find that at Miamiherald.com/wine.
LG: Congratulations Fred. You have an accolade from Epicurious.com.
FT: Yes, they named my wine page one of the top 15 in the country.
LG: Congratulations on that. Well, I’m just amazed by the number of new restaurants opening in Florida. For example, Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak is a new very upscale place. The Chef there is Andrew Rothschild. It has great ambience, good steaks, excellent wines, but it is pricey. On the other hand, I went to Andu which has been open 3 weeks and it was very refreshing. It was hip without attitude. It’s off Merry Brickell Village and it was reasonably priced. Entrees under the $30 mark. It’s amazing how many upscale chains have come to Miami. Texas de Brazil is on Miami Beach. That’s a Brazilian-style place where they walk around with skewers of beef, pork and chicken.
JK: That’s not a bad deal. If you think about how much you’ll spend on a steak somewhere else, it’s not a bad deal.
LG: Another chain, Nikki Beach, has opened in Coconut Grove. It’s worth a trip there to see the design of the restaurant and people watch. Also there are Chefs on the move. Jason McClain has moved and he’s now at Jason’s at the Harrison Hotel on Miami Beach. That’s another steak house. Also wine bars are very popular. One I like is the The Grape at Merrick Park.
FT: Yeah, they give you a splash of three different wines and then you can choose which one you want to drink. You know I talked to a wine distributors and he said 50 wine bars have opened in Coral Gables and the Grove.
JC: Wow, 50?
FT: They’re hot.
LG: Let’s start with Jen. What’s going on with these restaurant openings?
JK: Yes, they’ve been opening too fast for me to get to all of them! Brickell is a very hot area. Badrutt’s Place just opened and it’s a sibling to a place in Switzerland, which is a very high end place. It’s hard to discern what it’s going to be like based on the opening. I think they passed out flyers at all the local law firms because the opening was very lawyer-heavy and light on the food. But what I’ve seen of the menu and what I’ve heard is that it’s very good. It’s a very sophisticated kind of place.
LG: Brickell is amazing. It used to be dead after 5pm. Now the streets are packed at night.
JK: Yes, it’s hard to get a parking place. It’s hopping.
LG: There’s a multi-story parking garage going up.
JK: Abokado is also just opening up there also. They’re adding to the growing excitement that’s down there. You’ll be seeing plenty of those. Also on the beach there’s The Smoking Rabbit which is our first gastropub.
LG: Gastropubs are big in England recently.
FT: What is a gastropub?
JK: It’s a pub that doesn’t serve your typical Guinness Beef Stew. It’s the kind of the place that serves a finer fare so they call it a gastropub. This one is on Ocean Drive. So for everyone who has avoided Ocean Drive because it’s a tourist trap with bad food, there are some nice restaurants opening on Ocean. There’s La Marea, Vix’s, and now this one.
LG: Jen let it all out! [laughing]
JK: It’s getting better. There’s One Bleu which is opening March 10. That’s opening in Bal Harbour. I’m really looking forward to that.
LG: Well I’m Linda Gassenheimer. We’re talking with Jen Karetnick, the restaurant critic from the Miami Herald, and Rochelle Koff, the Broward Herald Restaurant Critic. We’ll be right back.
[break]
LG: Welcome back. We’re talking restaurants Jen Karetnick, the restaurant critic from the Miami Herald, and Rochelle Koff, the Broward Herald Restaurant Critic. They’ve been filling us in on the restaurant scene. Rochelle, what’s going on in Broward?
RK: There’s a lot happening in the next few months. There’s a renaissance on Las Olas Boulevard. There’s a new restaurant Riley McDermitt, where Zuca used to be. It’s a huge space and very nice. It’s a steak house with sea food and an extensive raw bar. It looks like a pretty sophisticated restaurant. Also right by there is a place opening called YOLA (You Only Live Once).
Everyone: [laughing]
RK: We’re looking forward to that because that space has been vacant for some time. Down the street Jack Mancini is opening up a few places. Ralph Pagano is going to be the corporate chef for all three restaurants.
LG: That’s been in the make for some time.
RK: Yes.
LG: Wasn’t he a Chef in Hell’s Kitchen?
RK: Yes. There’s also a steak house opening up called Flame Tour.
JK: We have more steak coming to Miami too with BLT Steak.
RK: Several more restaurants are opening like Stir Crazy, Tuscan Grill and some pubs. A few have opened in the last few weeks. We’ve got some new restaurant in hotels as well. Aizia at the Westin Diplomat & Spa as well as Cero at the St. Regis.
LG: That’s very pricey one. Are they all that pricey?
RK: Most restaurants in hotels tend to be pricey. Aizia is a lot more reasonable and it’s a gorgeous place. You can actually talk to people; it’s quiet.
LG: Really? Where is this?
RK: Yes, you can actually talk to someone.
LG: What’s with the noise?
JK: It’s a problem. It grows just like the prices have grown higher.
FT: Yeah. And what I’d like to hear is a nice list of places where 2 people can go and have a tab of about $60.
JK: There is a place called Dolores, But You Can Call Me Lolita.
JC: I don’t get that. [laughing]
JK: This place is actually the old Fire House #4. It has the old poles and everything. It has undergone a renovation and it’s price fix. For $18 you choose an entrée and appetizer, and for $23 you choose a different entrée and appetizer. They have a lot of options. For another $2.50 you can add on dessert. So if you go for the $23 selection for two people with wine you can get out of there for around $60.
FT: That’s amazing. Dessert for $2.50?
JK: I’m assuming the wine is $7 and that is without tip. And of course I encourage everyone to tip generously. But if you do go you want to sit on the rooftop terrace which is really lovely.
LG: We’re going to start taking phone calls now.
Caller: Hi. I wanted to tell you guys about a place that I like in the Grove. It’s a vegetarian spot called The Last Carrot. I also wanted to ask what’s going on with Sublime?
LG: The Last Carrot has been there for a long time.
RK: Sublime is back open again. They closed because of hurricane damage and then a partnership dispute. But it’s open again.
Caller 1: I hope they can bring more vegetarian and vegan spots down to Miami.
LG: Yes, we often get calls about that. Not enough of those.
Caller 2: I’m calling about a vegetarian place as well. It’s a Farmer’s Market in the Grove every Saturday. It’s near The Last Carrot and it’s all raw foods. They make pates and nori rolls.
LG: Yes, he’s been there for quite a while. Thank you.
Caller 3: I want to comment about dining out in South Florida. Your guest said you always want to tip generously. My husband and I want to tip generously and we do but so often you find that the service isn’t worth even 15%. I’d like to find a restaurant where the service and the food is good.
LG: That is a perennial problem. The people in the business say it’s hard to find good staff.
JK: It’s incredibly hard. People don’t want to put in the time and effort it takes to be a good server. People are in it for a quick buck. That said, there are places where the owners are invested in finding and training the best people. One place is Michael’s Genuine Food and Drink.
LG: They’ve been getting a lot of accolades recently.
JK: His staff is top notch. That’s a place where they deserve the 20%. I too get frustrated when the service is horrible and I don’t tip a full 20%.
LG: And do be careful because many of the bills lately have the tip already included.
JC: It’s a good idea to complain to management if your service is bad. They don’t want you to leave and never come back .They want to hear it.
JK: So you know if you find a bill with tip added in you’re not bound to pay it. You can pay the bill with the tax and not add the entire tip that they’ve already included.
JC: That’s for large parties though.
JK: No, not always. There are a lot of places, especially on Miami Beach, where they include tip.
JC: That also because there are many foreign patrons.
LG: I like it because I don’t have to do the math! [laughing]
JK: If you feel you didn’t get good service, you don’t have to add it if you don’t want to, even when it’s already included.
LG: My guests are Jen Karetnick, the restaurant critic from the Miami Herald, and Rochelle Koff, the Broward Herald Restaurant Critic. We’ll take a short break and be back with more.
[break]
LG: We’re back and we’ve been talking all about restaurants in Miami and Broward. Our reviewers are Jen Karetnick, the restaurant critic from the Miami Herald, and Rochelle Koff, the Broward Herald Restaurant Critic. They’ve been filling us in on the ins and outs of restaurants here. Rochelle you said you forgot another restaurant.
JK: China Grill opened at the Fort Lauderdale Grand Hotel and Yacht Club.
LG: So they’re moving north. There’s another China Grill on Miami Beach. Let’s go to another caller.
Caller 4: I’m an Ex Sous Chef. I cooked for a few years in the Miami Beach area. I’ve moved and I’ve found this great place which is a Cajun Louisiana Creole restaurant in an antique shop on Chrome Avenue in Homestead.
LG: Thanks for your call. We’ve got lots more people.
Caller 5: I’m always interested when I hear shows like this – nobody cares about Monroe County.
LG: Oh, we try. Fill us in!
Caller 5: I’d love to see your food critics come down here. We have everything from Cuban to Thai to Steak Houses.
LG: Do you have a favorite restaurant?
Caller 5: Hogfish is great and so is Norman Van Aiken’s new place. I also like Salute which is right on the beach in Key West. Nine One Five on Duvall Street is also nice. Why don’t we hear more about Monroe County?
FT: I’ll be down there myself in a couple of weeks. What’s a good place for me to try?
Caller 5: El Siboney. It’s the best Cuban at very inexpensive prices. I also like Chico’s which is very authentic Mexican food and it’s also affordable.
FT: What’s the best seafood restaurant?
Caller 5: Hog Fish is great. Fishbusters is also great and inexpensive. On the more expensive side is Salute which is great at a higher price. You should talk about the food down here more often.
LG: We’ll see what we can do about that. Thank you.
JK: I just ran into Norman Van Aiken. He was very charming.
FT: Is he all tan and fit and happy?
JK: He looks a lot happier.
LG: Let’s go to another caller.
Caller 6: There is a gentleman who owns Angelo’s Corner in Hollywood Beach and he’s opening a fish and burger shack. He’s trying to bring the Keys up to Hollywood. That should be exciting because there are no fish places up here.
LG: Here we are surrounded by water and there are few places for fish that aren’t expensive.
Caller 6: Every time I have northern guests people want good fish and what do you say, Tark’s?
RK: They still exist. Armadillo in Dania does a nice job on fish but it is a bit more expensive.
LG: Thank you.
Caller 7: I live in Broward and the Keys so I have two recommendations. One place is Calypso Restaurant & Raw Bar just south of Atlantic Boulevard. They have great Caribbean Cuisine. I go there a lot. The place in the Keys I like is Michael’s Steak House. All their beef comes in from Chicago. The service is outstanding. I think that’s on Margaret Street.
LG: Thanks.
Caller 8: I wanted to echo the disappointment on the service levels here in South Florida. I’m wondering if there’s any kind of resource where you can look at food but also service levels. Can anybody offer a resource?
JK: You mean like the Zagat survey?
Caller 8: Yes, where you can compare service because that to me is so important. I’ll just say I went to Nexxt Café in Coral Gables and they seem to have invested in their staff.
RK: Zagat does list service scores and of course reviews touch on service.
LG: Unfortunately it’s a revolving door here.
JK: You can have great service one time and then terrible the next. The best way is to find a critic you trust and follow that critic’s voice. You can pretty much follow in their footsteps. But again I’ve been to places with critics I trust and had opposite experiences.
RK: It’s all who you get that night too.
JK: South Florida is a transient place with a transient population. Also if you try to go to restaurants where the Chef is actually on site that makes a huge difference. Any restaurant named after people is a good bet.
LG: I’m Linda Gassenheimer. We’ll take a short break and be back with more.
[break]
LG: We’re back and it’s a restaurant roundabout program. We’re talking restaurants Jen Karetnick, the restaurant critic from the Miami Herald, and Rochelle Koff, the Broward Herald Restaurant Critic. Right now it’s dinner in minutes time. For those nights that you’re not going out to dinner it’s Cajun Chicken with Warm Rice Salad. See the recipe on my website. The Cajun spices are contrasted with the sweet grapes. Also boneless chicken thighs gives this more flavor.
JC: Really tasty rice.
LG: And Joe it’s brown rice.
JC: Hey, I’m healthy now.
FT: Make something out of tofu and we’ll see.
JC: I’m not going that far. [laughing]
LG: Fred, what are we drinking?
FT: I thought, with all the foodies listening to today’s show, I’d talk a bit about how you make your own wine.
LG: You make your own wine?
FT: A couple of years ago I tried it. Now there’s a company in California called Grape Masters that will let you do this. You have to fly to California a few times. They’ll take you around to vineyards and let you choose the grapes you want. Then they call you at harvest time and you come back to pick the grapes. You help sort and crush them and get them fermenting. They’ll tend to the processes after that, but you go out at the end to help label and bottle the wine. You have to commit to 60 cases (288 bottles) so it’s pricey. But they will put you in touch with wine makers so you can share a barrel and that way you can spend less. When you get the finished product it’s about $20-$30 per bottle. So if that’s your dream, check them out at Sonomagrapemaster.com.
LG: Is this on the wine blog?
FT: It will be. If you can’t get over this program and want to listen to it again, you can get the pod-cast or read about it at miaimiherald.com/wine.
JK: I’m so proud of you! You’re so tech-savvy!
LG: Yes you are. Well, let’s go back to the phones.
Caller 9: I have two recommendations. My favorite sushi is called Fujihana. It’s on 88th and 188th in Kendall. Some of the freshest spring rolls I’ve ever had. Also in Wilton Manor there’s a place called One Tea Lounge. They have lovely teas and light food. In the Grove there’s a place called Cucina Creativa.
LG: Thank you so much. I’m sorry we’re out of time. Thank you Rochelle Koff and Jennifer K. I’m so sorry we couldn’t get to all of the phone calls. Please join us next time.
RESTAURANTS MENTIONED:
Abokado (901 S Miami Ave, Miami, 305-416-6031)
Andu Restaurant and Lounge (141 SW 7th street in Miami, Florida, 786-871-7005)
Aizia (Westin Diplomat & Spa, 3555 S. Ocean Dr., Hollywood, 954-602-6000)
Armadillo (1200 S. Federal Highway, Dania Beach, 954-920-6166)
Badrutt’s Place (1250 S. Miami Ave., Miami, 305-415-0070)
BLT Steak (The Betsy Hotel, Ocean Drive and 14th Place)
Calypso Restaurant & Raw Bar (460 S. Cypress Road, Pompano Beach, 954-942-1633)
Cero (St. Regis Hotel, 1 North Ft. Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-465-2300)
Chico’s Cantina (5230 US Hwy 1, Stock Island, 305-296-4714)
Cucina Creativa (3138 Commodore Plaza, Coconut Grove, 305-448-1970)
Dolores, But You Can Call Me Lolita (1000 South Miami Avenue, Miami, 305-403-3104)
China Grill (Grand Hotel and Yacht Club, 1881 SE 17th St. Fort Lauderdale, 888-554-2131)
El Siboney (900 Catherine St, Key West, 305-296-4184)
Flame Tavern (opening in Fort Lauderdale)
Fujihana (11768 SW 88th St, Miami)
Hogfish Bar and Grill (6810 Front St, Stock Island, 305-293-4041)
Jason’s at Harrison Hotel (411 Washington Ave, 305-538-0398)
La Marea (The Tides Hotel, 1220 Ocean Drive)
Michael’s Genuine Food and Drink (130 N.E. 40th Street, Miami, 305-573-5550)
Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak (Fairmont Turnberry Isle Resort & Club, 19999 West Country Club Drive, 786-279-6600)
Michael’s Restaurant (532 Margaret Street, Key West, 305-295-1300)
Nexxt Café (101 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables, 305-567-5888)
Nine One Five (915 Duval Street, Key West, 305-296-0669)
Nikki Beach (2889 Mc.Farlane Road, Coconut Grove, 305-476-3600)
One Bleu (The Regent Bal Harbour, 10295 Collins Avenue, 800-545-4000)
One Tea Lounge (2037 Wilton Drive, Wilton Manors, 954-563-2266)
Riley McDermitt (401 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-765-1131)
Sublime (1431 N Federal Hwy, Fort Lauderdale, 954-539-9000)
Salute (1000 Atlantic Boulevard, Higgs Beach, Key West, 305-292-1117)
Stir Crazy (160 Boca Town Center, Boca Raton, 561-338-7500)
Texas de Brazil (11401 NW 12th St, 305-592-1973)
The Bar at Level 25 (1395 Brickell Ave 25th Floor, 305-503-6529)
The Grape Village at Merrick Park (361 San Lorenzo Ave, 305-444-9463)
The Last Carrot (3133 Grand Ave, Miami, 305-445-0805)
The Smoking Rabbit (510 Ocean Dr, Miami Beach, 305-531-2100)
Tuscan Grill (1105 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-766-8700)
Vix (Hotel Victor, 1144 Ocean Dr. South Beach)
YOLA (opening on Las Olas Blvd. in Fort Lauderdale)
