Food News and Views WLRN-NPR June 20, 2008
Food and Dining Radio Show – 6.20.08
Linda Gassenheimer (LG)
Joseph Cooper (JC)
Fred Tasker (FT)
Nino Pernetti (NP)
LG: Our guest today has passed an amazing milestone for a restaurant in Miami. Caffé Abbracci is celebrating its 20th Anniversary. We’re going to ask the owner his secret to success and about his extraordinary life. His book is Nino Pernetti’s Caffè Abbracci Cookbook: His Life Story and Travels around the World. Welcome Nino.
NP: Hi, it’s nice to be here with you.
LG: We’re delighted to have you here.
NP: Thank you.
LG: Sitting in his usual seat is Fred Tasker. He’s the wine columnist for the Miami Herald and he writes the wine suggestions for my dinner in minutes column. Each week we post all the news about the restaurant scene on my blog. Check it out at dinnerinminutes.com. Let’s go to Nino. 20 years for Caffee Abbracci. Congratulations!
NP: Thank you Linda. You said the word “success” but I don’t have the word in my vocabulary. I am still striving and my ambition is there. One day I will have success but it is still to come.
LG: That must be one of your secrets. You’re still working hard to create your vision. What are some of your secrets to longevity here?
NP: Longevity is like a three year old child. You can never leave him alone. You can never rest on your laurels. You must baby-sit him every single day. You must change your menu. Change your décor…
LG: You go to so many restaurants here where there are absentee chefs who are not there.
NP: I used to own two other restaurants and it has been my experience that I cannot run 2 places at the same time and be successful because you’ve got to be present. You must be present all the time in order to succeed and have people come back.
LG: You started working in northern Italy at the age of 13. You worked in Kabul, Kuala Lumpur, Istanbul…what brought you to this type of lifestyle?
NP: I was born in the lake area in Italy and my friend’s father owned a bed and breakfast and I was there to play but my friend had to work at the bar and I said I’ll help you out. I did this for 2 or 3 days and his father said, “why don’t you come to work here every day?” I said you have to speak with my dad. I knew my dad would say yes because it’s one less person to feed at home. And that’s how it started.
LG: And then you traveled.
NP: I went to high school and I loved the business. I love to make people happy and mingle amongst people. I attended hotel school for training. And I engaged then to work in big hotel chains around the world. They were sending me to different hotels.
FT: I read his book and it’s very interesting because you worked in 21 different countries before Miami.
LG: Take us on your travels.
NP: One of the first experiences was in Kabul. I didn’t know what to expect and I remember that I brought my big suit cases and I brought like 20 ties. And when they opened my suitcases they noticed all my ties and I didn’t understand what he was asking me so I just kept saying yes. It turned out they were asking if they could have one of my ties and more people just kept taking my ties. So they took like 15 ties.
LG: When was this?
NP: It was 1969.
LG: Very different than today.
NP: Yes, there were no roads. And I didn’t see a single man wearing a tie!
FT: What city was it where you had to keep in mind when you making the menu that you were serving Christians, Chinese and Hindus?
NP: Yes at that time I was the resident manager in Malaysia. We had the local union say that the food for the employees wasn’t up to standards. I said no the food is good and they took us to court. I told the Judge that I knew our food was good and he said, “okay let’s go and have lunch.” The lawyer said to me, Nino you better be sure and I said I know our food is good. We went there and we had lunch and played a game of ping pong and then the case was closed and we won.
FT: The Hindus wouldn’t eat pork…
NP: Yes, the Malay don’t eat pork but the Chinese eat everything. But I balanced everything.
FT: Also I found it was interesting in Paris that you needed to make the portions larger for the Americans.
NP: Yes at the hotel in Paris I had to run it with American portions. When I arrived the portions were small so I told the Chef he had to change the concept. Americans like to see their plates nice and full.
LG: We’re talking with Nino Pernetti. His book is Nino Pernetti’s Caffè Abbracci Cookbook: His Life Story and Travels around the World. It’s a wonderful, charming book full of his stories of his travels around the world. So let’s go to dinner in minutes now. It’s an Italian American meal that’s Spaghetti and Meatballs. Nino told me that they really don’t have meatballs in Italy.
NP: Yes, I did say that.
LG: To make this dish go to my website dinnerinminutes.com.
JC: These are great!
FT: The size of a baseball!
LG: Also there’s a blog on my website where I’ll answer your cooking questions. Fred, what are we drinking today?
FT: Well I’m asking the question, “how shallow are Americans?” We’re so shallow we will buy more wine and pay more money for it if it has a celebrity name attached to it. A new survey says celebrity wine sales drew 19% in 2007.
NP: I vouch for that. I have the Greg Norman wine and it sells a lot.
FT: We pay $8.50 for Celebrity Wines as opposed to $7.95 for regular wines. Danny DeVito has limoncello for $29 a bottle. In most cases they just lend their names to a vineyard that has some extra. So how many celebrities does it take to make a bottle of wine? None, they just lend their name. But the exception is Francis Ford Coppola. He’s quite knowledgeable.
LG: He really does know about his wines.
FT: He even created a soft Prosecco in honor of the marriage of his daughter Sophia. That still goes on even though the marriage did not last. The Wayne Gretzsky Estates Winery is projected sales of 80,000 cases.
All: Wow.
LG: Let’s go back to Nino. He’s brought food here. Tell us what you’ve brought.
NP: We brought some Carpaccio and we do it a little bit different. We top this with a nice mayonnaise blended with lemon juice, Worchester sauce, grappa and mustard. Then we sprinkle capers on top to add some saltiness. It makes a nice blend.
FT: I like it.
LG: You also brought a wonderful spread.
NP: Yes we brought a nice goat cheese that is blended with pine nuts and sun dried tomatoes. It’s on a baguette with garlic and Provencal herbs. That’s also a nice summer dish.
LG: All these recipes are in his book Nino Pernetti’s Caffè Abbracci Cookbook: His Life Story and Travels around the World.
Caller 1: I love the show. I have a quick question. How difficult was it for you to get established initially?
NP: In life nothing is difficult if you have passion and ambition. You need passion for what you do and ambition for where you want to arrive.
LG: And hard work. And also your travel and experience helps. You understand the business.
NP: You need a solid ground to build a solid house. I acquired a lot of experience in the food business.
LG: I think that’s a nice secret to your success. When people do come in there is someone to greet you and make you feel welcome.
NP: Our slogan at Abbracci is you come in and you never forget the food and we’ll never forget your face. When you come back we know you.
LG: Nino, you tell me it’s like theatre. What’s your next act?
NP: It’s ongoing. As long as people are coming and you’re innovating you keep going.
LG: When did you come to Miami?
NP: 25 years ago.
LG: We’re delighted that you came. Thank you so much for joining us here today. Caffe Abbracci is in Coral Gables (318 Aragon) and his book is Nino Pernetti’s Caffè Abbracci Cookbook: His Life Story and Travels around the World.