Food News and Views April 3, 2008
Food and Dining Radio Show – 4.3.08
Linda Gassenheimer (LG)
Joseph Cooper (JC)
Fred Tasker (FT)
Victoria Pesce Elliot (VE)
LG: Joe, have you noticed the explosion of new restaurants in South Florida? It seems like each week there are new restaurants opening. Unfortunately there are lots of restaurants that are closing too. I’ve asked Victoria Pesce Elliot to come in and talk about the restaurant scene. She is the Restaurant Critic for the Miami Herald. Fred Tasker is here in his usual seat. He’s the wine columnist for the Miami Herald. Victoria, Joe just mentioned that the economy is slowing down so you’d think the restaurant scene would slow down. But it seems like just the opposite.
VE: A lot of these places have taken years to open so that may explain why they’re opening at this time. But a lot of other places, even moderately priced places, are closing. Not just high-priced places. Even Johnny Rockets in Coconut Grove closed.
LG: Johnny Rockets in Coconut Grove?!
VE: Yes. Nexxt also closed. City Cellars closed. I’m not sure what’s happening.
LG: We’ll have a list of the restaurants we discuss today on my website. In case you can’t jot it all down, it’ll be there. Let’s talk more – I’m looking at the restaurants that are opening. They seem to be chain restaurants. For example, Novecento, which has 9 restaurants and they’ve just opened in Coral Gables. Why is that?
VE: Banks are less willing to lend single mom and pop restaurants money. Novecento in this economy is great and that looks good to lenders also. They have a long track record; it works. Bone Fish Grill just opened in Coral Gables. Some of the smaller chains can get the funding.
LG: One of the private owned restaurants was telling me they have a hard time with staffing because of benefits.
VE: Especially in South Florida where hotels lure away the best service people because they have better benefits.
LG: Some of the restaurants have closed because of poor service.
VE: Yes, maybe it will shake out some of the lesser players. But then some mediocre places survive because they have big portions or better prices.
FT: Service is so important. I was at City Cellars before it closed. They gave my 86 year old mother in law soup that was laced with peppers. They didn’t say anything about that. She sent it back and then we waited for an hour.
LG: Another listener told me they waited an hour to get served a first course at a restaurant. It’s hard to be good every day but they have to be.
VE: That’s part of my job. I go back a second and third time when I review a restaurant.
LG: We’ve got a caller.
Caller 1: I just wanted to mention that in Delray Beach I frequent a restaurant called 32 East. They change their menu all the time. They do great things with seafood. I wanted to drop that name.
LG: Victoria is shaking her head up and down.
VE: Chef Nick Morfogen is fantastic. He’s from Colorado but has quickly adapted to the climate here and I’m a big fan of his too.
LG: Can we talk more about Broward. What’s going on up there?
VE: It’s booming there also. Stir Crazy opened in the Pembroke Gardens Shopping Mall. I’ve heard great things, but I haven’t been there myself. Also Brio Tuscan Grill in that same area. I’ve heard good things about Riley McDermott’s on Las Olas. Also Christine’s on Oakland Park Boulevard.
LG: Steak is the big deal still.
VE: Yes, steak is the big winner these days.
JC: Pay Way is very good. It’s in Miami Lakes off Ludlam Road.
LG: We were just talking about new places in shopping centers. Merry Brickell Village is now the hopping place.
VE: It’s like a food court.
Everyone: [laughing]
LG: How did that happen?
VE: That’s been years in the works. They’ve been talking about it for a while. We’ll see if it holds up.
FT: Condo construction is going crazy there. Maybe that will support it.
VE: But they’re empty!
LG: On a Tuesday night streets are packed with people.
VE: Yes, the after office happy hour crowed is keeping that place busy.
Caller 2: Being that you’re talking about restaurants, I found a place that has two locations. It’s called Chef Creole and they serve wonderful seafood.
JC: On 17th Avenue?
Caller 2: I think it’s 54th and NW 2nd Avenue. The other one is on 141st.
VE: I’m a big fan of their fried pork skin and the conch skin is really fantastic.
Caller 2: I’ve been to hip hop events and they’re doing the catering at these events also.
VE: He’s a very good guy and a community activist. I’m also a big fan.
LG: We also want to mention all of the Celebrity Chefs coming to town.
VE: I guess the first big Celebrity Chef to come here was Emeril in 2003 when he opened at the Lowes. He’s doing well and a lot of people are following him.
JC: Danny Devito.
VE: Yes, not just Celebrity Chefs but celebrities too like Robert De Niro. As far as Celebrity Chefs there’s Govind Armstrong who came from LA to open Table 8, La Goulue in Bal Harbor, Michael Mina in Bourbon Steak. But there’s a problem with absentee chefs. They’re not here much.
FT: Emeril’s is making it work though. He has a good staff.
VE: Yes, some do. It takes a strong network to really make it work.
LG: I’m Linda Gassenheimer. I’m talking with Victoria Pesce Elliot about restaurants. We’ll take a quick break and be back with more.
[break]
LG: And we’re back. I’m Linda Gassenheimer. I’m talking with Victoria Pesce Elliot about restaurants. She is the Miami Herald Restaurant Critic. It’s dinner in minutes time for those evenings you’re not going out to dinner. Fred, I thought of you with this recipe. It’s Whisky Pork with Rosemary Lentils. See the recipe on my website www.dinnerinminutes.com.
JC: What kind of whisky?
LG: Whatever you want. For the side dish you can find steamed lentils in a vacuum-packed package. It’s real quick and easy. Fred, what are we drinking?
FT: What kind of wine goes with whisky? [Laughing] I thought I’d talk about ordering wine in restaurants. One thing we’re famous for down here is wine markups on restaurant wine lists. I tried to come up with some tips for coping with this. One thing is people tend to want to get the cheapest wine on the list. But you should know they markup the cheapest wines the most. But there is a way to protect yourself. If you’re choosing the cheapest white wine I try to choose a Pinot Grigio, never a Sauvignon Blanc. Pinot Grigio is more forgiving. For red wine, avoid the Pinot Noir. That’s called the heart break grape. Instead I would order the Syrah. For some reason that grape is more forgiving and you can pretty much do anything to it and it’s still pretty pleasant. So at least you can get through the evening. I’m not meaning to imply that WRLN listeners are cheap. I’m just trying to keep you in shape for our next fundraising drive.
LG: Great advice.
Caller 3: I was just calling about this one restaurant in Broward. I’m not an expert but I do eat out a lot. But there’s one place called Le Tub. It’s gotten a lot of press for hamburgers. I’ve been there 2 times and there have been roaches on my table. It was pretty bad but when I asked the waitress she said, “you’re outside, what do you expect?” I don’t understand why it’s so popular?
LG: Let me get Victoria to respond to that.
VE: I would say that’s the power of the media. I know Allen Richmond, who wrote about them in GQ, and there’s something about the ambience there that people really enjoy. People think it’s like discovering something new because it’s kind of seedy and also it’s by the water.
LG: Victoria did you have more information about Celebrity Chefs?
VE: All the chefs in NY are talking about coming down. I’ve heard Wolfgang Puck is coming to South Beach. The acclaimed Chef from Gotham Bar and Grill chef is coming. Gordon Ramsay is already in Boca Raton. BLT in the Betsy Ross is looking to come to South Beach and I’ve heard Morimoto is looking in the Design District.
LG: How do they expect to make it?
VE: We shall see.
LG: This week went by way too fast. We’ll have to have you back Victoria.
VE: Thank you. It’s always a pleasure. And I got free lunch!
LG: Fred and Joseph Cooper, thank you. Next week we’ll be talking with Lynn Rosetta Casper from The Splendid Table. Join me then.
RESTARUANTS DISCUSSED:
32 East, 32 East Atlantic Avenue, Delray Beach, 561-276-7868
Bone Fish Grill, 2121 Ponce de Leon Blvd, Coral Gables, 305-460-1888
Brio Tuscan Grill, 14576 SW 5th Street, Pembroke Pines, 954-431-1341
Chef Creole, 200 NW 54th St, Miami, 305-754-2223
Christine’s, 2671 E Park Oakland Blvd, Ft. Lauderdale, 954-566-1919
Devito’s, 150 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach, 305-531-0911
Emeril’s, 1601 Collins Ave, Miami Beach, 305-695-4550
La Goulue Christian Delouvrier, 9700 Collins Avenue, Bal Harbour, 305-865-2181
Le Tub, 1100 N. Ocean Drive (Buchanan Street), Hollywood, 954-921-9425
Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak, 19999 West Country Club Drive, Aventura, 786-279-6600
Novecento, 121 Alhambra Plaza, Coral Gables, 305-557-0900
Riley McDermott’s, 401 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale
Stir Crazy, The Shops of Pembroke Gardens, 14571 SW 5th St., 954-919-4900
Table 8, 1458 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach, 305-695-4114
Other Openings
MINT LEAF INDIAN BRASSERIE OPENS IN CORAL GABLES
276 Alhambra Circle, 305-443-3739
DIBONO’S ITALIAN CAFE OPENS IN NORTH MIAMI BEACH
Di Bono’s, 15979 Biscayne Blvd, 305-948-3330
ARISTON GREEK RESTAURANT OPENS
Ariston, 940 71st St., Miami Beach (305)-864-9848
POR FIN OPENS
Por Fin, 2500 Ponce de Leon Boulevard, Coral Gables (305)-441-0107
RESTAURANT 1 BLEU OPENS MARCH 3
1 Bleu, The Regent Bal Harbour, 10295 Collins Avenue, (305)-455-5400.
IL GABBIANO OPENS IN DOWNTOWN MIAMI
Il Gabbiano, 335 South Biscayne Blvd, 305-373-0063.
ANDÚ RESTAURANT & LOUNGE
141 SW 7th street (786) 871-7005.
DUNE HAMBURGER RESTAURANT ON THE BEACH
The Ritz Carlton, Key Biscayne, 305-365-4500
RODIZIO-STYLE TEXAS DE BRAZIL OPENS IN MIAMI BEACH
Texas de Brazil at the Miami Beach Marina, 300 Alton Road, (305) 695-7702; www.texasdebrazil.com.
JOLEY OPENS ON SOUTH BEACH
Joley, Hotel Astor, 956 Washington Avenue, 305-534-3343
KOBE CLUB, SOUTH BEACH OPENS
Kobe Club Miami, 404 Washington Avenue, 305-673-5370.
Mary Brickell Village
BLU PIZZA E CUCINA OPENS IN MARY BRICKELL VILLAGE
Blu Pizza e Cucina, Mary Brickell Village, 900 S. Miami Ave. suite 130., 305-381-8335.
BADRUTT’S PLACE OPENS
Badrutt’s Place, 1250 South Miami Avenue (305)-415-0070, badrutts-place.com
ABOKADO
900 S. Miami Ave.., 305-347-3700
THE STRIP HOUSE OPENS AT THE REACH RESORT IN KEY WEST
Strip House Key West at The Reach Resort, 1435 Simonton Street, Key West. 305-295-9669. www.striphouse.net.